#RobeLife

A Case for Wearing Robes, in Public and Private

A$AP Rocky in a Gucci robe and mules

Gandalf, Obi Wan Kenobi, and The Dude. Two commonalities thread these three legendary fictional characters together: wisdom and robes. Both defining characteristics come from the monkish influences that inspired all three characters. Monks, of both Eastern and Western religions, choose robes for their modest simplicity. They are often solid colored, whether brown in the Christian tradition or orange in the Buddhist tradition, and disregard any form of fashion. The wisdom characteristic, while more of a literary trope, certainly carries some weight. Robes bestow an assumed wisdom upon their wearer. The case made here is that this assumed wisdom holds up whether the robe is orange cotton or a fabulous Gucci concoction.

Robes have a long history in Europe, going back to the Greco-Roman togas, but for the history of robes in contemporary fashion, you have to look to the East. European fabrics of the middle ages were boring, drab, heavy, and uncomfortable. The Silk Road allowed Asian goods to trickle into Europe for centuries but it wasn’t until sea trade opened up between Europe and Asia in the fourteenth century that Asian fabrics made their way into European fashion. Chinese, Japanese, and Indian fashion featured ornate patterns and bright colors that fascinated medieval Europeans. These garments also came in much lighter and softer fabrics like cotton, linen, and silk.

The robe as we know it in western fashion began in Northern Italy during the Renaissance. Fantastically wealthy merchants began to flaunt their wealth by wearing oriental fabrics. They tailored these fabrics into European approximations of Japanese and Chinese garments that resembled robes. This new fashion trend came to represent wealth and power. As trade expanded over the following centuries these fabrics became more abundant and cheaper. By the nineteenth century ornate robes became a middle class extravagance. That is where we still find them today.

Some extravagances though, are defendable under the right circumstances. With proper stylistic inflection, robes can work in social settings. It’s all about finding the robe that work best for your personal style and confidence level. The Japanese yukata is an excellent place to start when approaching Robe Life for the first time. A yukata is essentially a summer weight kimono. They are traditionally made from cotton or other lightweight fabrics and feature a short sleeve that drops just below the elbow. When styling a yukata, think of it as a substitute for a short sleeve button down or Hawaiian shirt. California Cowboy offers an Americanized take on the yukata. Their version has a terry cloth lining, sunglass loop on the lapel, and a third pocket on the back hip designed to hold a bottle. They come in several fun patterns, akin to Hawaiian shirts (another Japanese inspired garment), and are ideal for summer parties.  If you want a proper Japanese yukata, check out the Kimono Yukata Market to get one made in Japan to traditional specs.

Gustave Courbet Kept it Real

The Founder of Realism and the Original Artist-Activist

The Calm Sea, 1869

Somewhere just outside the border of the Impressionist Wing of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, hangs an idyllic seascape by Gustave Courbet. The painting is aptly titled The Calm Sea as it depicts waves gently rolling upon a pristine beach. Two empty fishing boats sit in the foreground while three sailboats cut across the smooth ocean just along the horizon. Vast cloud puffs fill the upper three-quarters of the frame like a head of beer overflowing it’s vessel. This ratio was chosen to express the enormity of the sky and humble the viewer before nature’s vast beauty.

While The Calm Sea is a highlight among Courbet’s extensive collection of work, it is in no way indicative of the artist himself or his sensational career. Courbet was born in 1819 Ornans, France. His family were financially successful farmers. While he was afforded a comfortable upbringing, he was constantly faced with the plight of the agricultural lower class. The striking social inequalities of post-Napoleonic France, at the dawn of the Industrial Revolution, influenced Courbet throughout his career.

Le Désespéré (The Desperate Man), a self portrait

Courbet began his career in the early 1840s painting romantic self-portraits and literary characters but quickly grew tired of such frivolous subjects. Inspired by the Dutch Masters such as Rembrandt, he dedicated himself to only painting the world he lived in as realistically as his talent would allow. In 1849 he won the gold medal at the Salon, the most prestigious art award in France at the time, for After Dinner at Ornans. This was the first substantial piece in what would become the Realism school of painting.

A Summer of Leisure

How to Keep it Comfy and Classy with Summer Leisurewear

James Bond at the peak of leisurewear in Thunderball

Over the past decade, athleisure has set the precedent that everyone can dress as comfortably in their public lives as they can in their private lives. While this prospect has been wonderfully liberating, it has lead to a certain debasement of sartorial decorum. Sweatpants and gym shorts, once reserved for athletic endeavors, are now commonplace in all public forums. Long gone are the days when a gentleman wouldn’t so much as run to the grocery store without pressed slacks and a collared shirt. Summer after summer, bars throughout America have crowded with bros in v-neck t-shirts and chino shorts. Somewhere after religating suits to formal occasions, menswear lost it’s way and ended up a bit too sloppy. Come on gentlemen, we can do better!

Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not advocating for a return to pressed slacks and starched shirts every day. I enjoy the level of comfort we’ve collectively slipped into and I’ll never give it up. However, there are better ways to go about it. Athletic wear should be left on the court and in the gym in favor of more refined clothing designed for comfort. Our grandparents had a name for it, they called it leisurewear. Leisurewear consists of the kind of collared shirts and short-shorts worn on vacation and casual nights out a couple generations back. Gentlemen in the mid-twentieth century enjoyed the same kind of comfort we’ve gotten from athlesiure while maintaining their sartorial dignity.

The fashion zeitgeist is beginning to move away from the dressed-down look of athleisure. Classic leisurewear will enjoy a resurrection during the Summer of 2020 and there are a few new brands that are leading the way. These brands are using lighter and softer fabrics to construct approximations of vintage looks from the golden age of leisurewear. Terrycloth, linen, cotton, and new lightweight sustainable fabrics are replacing the spandex-centric fabrics of mid-twentieth century. Collars are replacing crewnecks and short-shorts are replacing joggers. The result is a stylish casual attire that your grandmother would be happy to see you in.

Dand Del Mar is a brand founded upon the legacy left by the golden age of leisurewear. Their vibe is straight out of a 1970s Southern California pool party and they love terry cloth. Essentially, Dandy Del Mar is a combination of Burt Reynolds and the most comfortable bathrobe you’ve ever worn, turned into a clothing brand. Since the brand is so young – founded at the beginning of 2019 – their summer ’20 line is small. But the vision of that line is so coherent that their entire collection could fit snugly into anyone’s wardrobe as an instant upgrade. However, if you’re going to pluck a single item from the line, I would start with the Gaucho Shirt (Right). They’ve also curated a soundtrack to match their coastal mexicali summer vibes.

If you’re looking for something a little flashier, then Tombolo offers some great options. Tombolo is one of the most progressive new brands in fashion. They design and market all their apparel as unisex. They exclusively source sustainable fabrics with complete transparency. Plus they do not adhere to the traditional seasonal release schedule, opting to produce limited runs by individual design and release them as soon as they’re available to avoid overproduction. So far, they offer shirts, pants, a small line of accessories, and a lightweight quilted jacket. If you’re looking for a new summer party shirt, look no further then Tombolo’s Crouching Tiger, Hidden Beverage. It’s a pajama-hawaiian shirt hybrid (notice the piping) made from Tencel, a natural fiber substitute for Rayon (Above). The Crouching Tiger, Hidden Beverage artwork is also featured on a zip-front Cabana Shirt, if you prefer terry cloth. This is a brand to keep a close eye on, either through their social media or their website, because they’re routinely dropping interesting new pieces.

Hamilton and Hare’s Limoncello Stripe set

Now, for something more traditional and understated, check out the British loungewear brand Hamilton and Hare. Their classic and understated designs will allow you to dip your toes in the leisurewear pool without diving head-first into the deep end. Hamilton and Hare give sourcing great fabrics the attention it deserves without rubbing your face in it. They specialize in linen, terry cloth, and organic cotton and offer some great natural fiber alternatives. The brand has gotten early traction from their underwear, pyjamas, and basics. However, their loungewear line really sets the brand apart. Equally fit for the bedroom and the hotel bar, the loungewear line is exemplified by their Limoncello Stripe shirt and shorts (Right). This pyjama inspired set will sit comfortably on your body and your mind as they are made from 100% Lyocell, a Rayon substitute made from wood pulp. They work independently but really play well as a set and if you’re feeling bold, you can add the matching robe to your ensemble.

Leisurewear is this sort of long lost secret that we’re collectively rediscovering in 2020. There are plenty of brands out there, big and small, that are taking inspiration from vintage leisure pieces and modernizing them with new fabrics and designs. All of them have the same idea in mind: to look classy while remaining comfy. A happy medium exists between chinos and board shorts and that’s where we all should spend our summers. So when you’re ready to trade in your Bud Light for a Negroni, slip into some leisurewear and let the good times roll.

Lowkey Fit Flix: Jaws

Lowkey Fit Flix is a series where we pay tribute to great films that aren’t necessarily known for their wardrobe but feature excellent menswear.

1974 was a great year for sunglasses, shaggy hair, and cutoff jorts

Jaws is unanimously considered as one of the greatest films of all time. It was Hollywood’s first blockbuster. It launched Steven Spielberg’s career. It changed how we look at the ocean, forever placing in the back our minds, however illogically, that there may be a killer shark out there. We’re here to throw some more praise at this cinematic masterpiece for an aspect of the film that is often overlooked: Jaws had a killer wardrobe (sorry, had to do it).

A large part of Jaws’ success comes from it’s authentic feel. The audience is drawn into the location and cares about the characters because it all feels so real, almost as much a documentary as it is a film. Spielberg famously insisted on filming in the Atlantic Ocean instead of a lake or tank – which had never been done before – because the texture of the open ocean could not be faked. Martha’s Vineyard was chosen as the shooting location because it perfectly matched the novel’s fictional setting of Amity Island. Spielberg and production designer Joe Alves didn’t have to change anything to bring Peter Benchley’s sleepy little New England resort town to life. Once the location was set, the characters had to dress the part of early 1970’s vacationers and haggard sea folk.

The wardrobe vibe for the film was very much inspired by the location. Martha’s Vineyard provided the New England preppy aesthetic of the beach-goers as well as the grizzled blue collar aesthetic of the small business owners and fishermen. Amity’s white collar residents and tourists that flocked to the island during the summer wore typical 1970’s resort wear. Meanwhile, the heroes of our story – Police Chief Brody, marine biologist Hooper, and the grizzled veteran Quint – are all clad in timelessly cool workwear.

Fashion’s Other Plastic Problem

Replacing Single-Use Plastics in the Retail Supply Chain

Sea turtles east clear plastic because it looks like jellyfish, one of their primary food sources

It’s common knowledge at this point that the fashion industry produces an excessive amount of waste and is a major contributor to the current environmental crisis the world is facing. The face of this problem is the overproduction of garments through environmentally irresponsible processes. The International Union for the Conservation of Nature claims that 15 to 30 percent of the plastics found in our oceans come from the microfiber runoff of producing garments with artificial fabrics. The abundance created by the Fast Fashion boom is another problem all together. The aftereffect of this overproduction is “almost 65 percent of all garments end up in landfill or are incinerated, releasing toxic chemicals as just 1 percent are recycled,” according to Wrap (Waste and Resources Action Programme).

Addressing production waste as well as creating a cyclical ecosystem where worn-out or unwanted garments can be recycled into new garments has been the two major focal points for the industry thus far. Burberry announced in September 2018 that they would stop burning their leftover stock at the end of each season. Brands like Adidas and J. Crew are making products from post market materials. H&M offers bins where customers can drop off used clothes rather than throw them in the trash. Transparency is quintessential to any efforts made by fashion brands to improve environmental responsibility. Despite any claims of morality and ethics, any moves toward environmental accountability are PR and marketing decisions made by capitalist businesses. The market follows the consumer and fashion brands are only becoming more environmentally conscientious because their clientele are.

These incremental changes are encouraging and appear to be snowballing as positive public feedback increases. A trillion dollar industry with global supply chains cannot change overnight but a concerted effort is being made. However, there is still a major area of waste in the industry that remains opaque to the public and has been virtually ignored by the media: the use of plastic in product distribution. The gap between production and consumption, when the garments belong to and are moved around by the company, is plagued by excessive use of single-use plastics.